Heißt eine NDR-3-Sendung nicht “Unser schöner Norden”? Für Tansania gilt das ebenso. Wie Handyläden und Billigbackshops in deutschen Innenstädten sind hier oben die wunderbarsten und namhaftesten Naturschönheiten aneinandergereiht. Über allem wacht erhaben der Kilimanjaro. Auf der Rückfahrt vom Tarangire Nationalpark und dem Ngorongoro-Krater rundete der Anblick dieses majestätischen Bergmassivs mein erstes Safari-Wochenende vollends ab.

Der Tarangire Nationalpark und der Ngorongoro-Krater liegen – grob gesagt – fünf Autostunden westlich von Moshi. Wir waren nicht wie erwartet zu dritt – Sarah und Hannah, beides Studentinnen aus England, und ich – unterwegs, sondern zu viert. Mit uns begab sich die überaus freundliche Anne, eine Lehrerin aus dem schwäbischen Metzingen, mit auf Safari. Ihr Dialekt weckte bei mir angenehme Erinnerungen an die Treffen der “VfB Freunde München”. Subbä!

Subbä war schon die Fahrt zum Tarangire Nationalpark. Zwar holperte der Jeep trotz seiner Stoßdämpfer gewaltig ü ber die Buckelpiste. Aber es war trotzdem toll, die Veränderung der Landschaft zu sehen. Rund um Moshi ist es relativ grün und üppig. Je weiter wir uns entfernten, desto karger wurde es. Vor allem hinter dem überaus hässlichen, sogar am arbeitsfreien Sonntag mit Autos vollgestopften Touristen-Hotspot Arusha (das lag etwa auf halber Strecke) war es extrem unwirtlich. Ein paar Büsche auf dem sandigen Boden, sonst nichts. Ein Wunder, dass die Massai samt ihrer Viehherden hier überleben können.

Am Eingangstor zum Tarangire Nationalpark machten wir beim Mittagessen unsere erste Bekanntschaft mit frechen Affen. Erst schlichen sie sich langsam an unseren Tisch heran. Als sie sich sicher sein konnten, dass wir sie auch wirklich “awesome” bzw. “amazing” bzw. “cute” fanden, griffen sie plötzlich und in wirklich affenartiger Geschwindigkeit von unter dem Tisch in unsere Lunchboxen, rissen alles Greifbare raus, flüchteten ein paar Meter weiter und sicherten sich so ihre Mahlzeit. Doch dies sollte erst der Auftakt einer unglaublichen Affenshow sein…

Mit dem Tor zum Tarangire Nationalpark öffnet sich eine eigene Welt. In dieser Welt gibt es viele Bäume, darunter den mächtigen Baobab-Baum, Sträucher und Gräser, Wasserstellen oder gar Flüsschen – und jede Menge Tiere. Gleich nachdem wir das Tor passierten kreuzten Warzenschweine, Zebras, Antilopen, Elefanten und eine Giraffe unseren Weg. Wüsste ich es nicht besser, würde ich behaupten, es wären Kostüme gewesen und darin steckten Statisten, die den Touristen die heile Sielmann- und Grzimek-Welt vorgaukeln sollten. Faszinierend übrigens, wie gut sich die kolossalen Giraffen tarnen können. Manchmal sah ich Giraffen erst, als sie quasi schon auf der Motorhaube saßen und dort Skat spielten.

Es war ein großartiges Erlebnis, durch diesen so lebendigen und abenteuerlichen Nationalpark zu gondeln. Der Jeep hatte ein aufklappbares Dach, und so konnten wir die ganze Zeit im Fahrzeug stehen und hatten keine Scheibe zwischen uns und den Tieren. Ich hoffe allerdings sehr, dass es hier Beschränkungen der Besucherzahl gibt, um die Tierwelt nicht allzu sehr zu stören. Viele Jeeps sah ich glücklicherweise nicht.

Auf der Fahrt über die vorgegebenen Pisten haben mich nicht die Giraffen, die eng zusammenmarschierenden Elefanten-Herden oder die imposanten Löwen am meisten beeindruckt. Diese hatten gerade einen Büffel erlegt und taten sich (wie unsereins beim ersten Bissen einer Tiefkühlpizza mit hartem Rand) etwas schwer, einen Anfang zu finden. Nein, unterm Strich gefielen mir die bunten Vögel sowie die unerschütterlichen und “formschönen” Bäume am besten. Vielleicht liegt das am Alter, dass sich die Vorlieben etwas in Richtung Verschrobenheit entwickeln…

Nach einer insektenfreien Übernachtung in einem quirligen Städtchen mit dem schönen Namen Mto wa Mbu (“Moskitofluss”) ging’s in aller Herrgottsfrühe weiter zum Ngorongoro Krater. Dort folgte am Eingangstor ein spektakuläres Erlebnis mit Affen. Wie schon in Tarangire versuchten sie, Lebensmittel zu stehlen. Zwei Paviane wagten sich dabei in einen leeren, aber offen stehenden Jeep. Als der Fahrer sie erblickte, wollte er die Affen verscheuchen. Da wählte einer der überaus kräftigen Burschen die Frontscheibe des Jeeps als Fluchtweg. Diese zerbrach zwar nicht, hatte danach aber tausend Risse. Bei Aktenzeichen XY würde die Suchmeldung in etwa lauten: “Der verdächtige Branko Brutalovic hat eine Narbe an Stirn. Vorsicht, er gilt als äußerst gewaltbereit.” Spätestens ab da hielten wir respektvollen Abstand von den Affen.

Den Ngorongoro-Krater ist wie ein gigantischer Suppenteller, bei dem man sogar von einem Ende zu anderen blicken kann: innen nahezu flach, mit einem recht hohen Rand drumherum. Als wir von diesem dicht bewachsenen, beinahe urwaldartigen Rand in die Tiefe fuhren, stellten wir verwundert fest, dass es nicht viele Bäume gibt. Eigentlich kaum welche. Der Krater ist “unten” platt und kahl. Und trotz gelingt es vielen Tieren brillant, sich dort, wo welches wächst, im nicht einmal sehr hohen Gras zu verstecken. Es kam häufiger vor, dass unser Fahrer hielt und wir trotz angestrengten Spähens nicht wussten, was er nun wieder gesehen hat – und nur ein paar Meter weiter döste ein Löwe im Gras. Er war zuvor für uns wie unsichtbar. Wären hier Wanderungen erlaubt – Wanderer hätten die gleiche Lebenserwartung wie eine Eintagsfliege im Reptilien- (oder Amphibien-?)terrarium. Bei der letzten Rast in Ngorongoro ließen es sich Affen übrigens nicht nehmen, wie aus dem Nichts durch die Dachluke in einen Jeep zu grabschen und Essen zu mopsen. Aber das kannten wir ja nun schon.

Dieses wunderschöne Erlebnis liegt heute gefühlt mehr als einen Tag zurück; die Arbeit hat mich wieder. In dieser Woche muss ich ein wichtiges Teammeeting vorbereiten, meine begonnenen Projekte fortsetzen und mich am Freitag auf einer Konferenz den NAFGEM-Mitgliedern vorstellen. Heute am späten Nachmittag findet das erste Volontätstreffen statt, morgen klappt das von mir initiierte Freundschaftsspiel gegen das Kilimanjaro-Waisenhaus tatsächlich. Und dann haben meine Kollegin Honorata und ich beschlossen, direkt nach der Arbeit gemeinsam regelmäßig Sport zu treiben, genauer: zu walken. Mittwoch oder Freitag geht es los. Damit sind dann hoffentlich auch die Zeit vorbei, in der ich bei Anbruch der Dunkelheit (also um 18.30 Uhr) zuhause in meinem Zimmer rumlungere und nichts Besseres zu tun habe, als einen ziemlich zähen und verworrenen Nele-Neuhaus-Schinken zu Ende zu lesen.

Join the Conversation

710 Comments

  1. frage: wurde der schwäbin auch essen geklaut von den lustigen äffchen? ich würde ja tippen, dass nicht… als schwäbin ist man den berühmten affenberg zu salem gewohnt, wo man mindesten einmal als kleinkind schon heulend den familienausflug aus genau diesem grund des “mundraubs” ruiniert hat, daraus lernt man auch für die wildnis (war bei mir zumindest so…)
    klauende affen hin oder her, ich bin doch sehr neidisch auf diese erlebnisse…und werde dieses gefühl in bälde mit einer wiesn maß auf dich runterspülen.
    prost und glg
    maria

  2. Olaf 😉

    mensch, mensch 🙂 Weit weg ! Erzähl, wie geht es dir ? Alles “gut” bei dir ? Liebste Grüße aus dem wunderschönen Dörentrup 🙂 Maike

  3. Mensch Olläff, ich bin begeistert. Hatte schon wieder völlig vergessen, dass Du einen Blog eröffnet hast, habe ich heute bei Xing gelesen.
    Ich beneide Dich und habe mich bei manchen Schilderungen natürlich schon ausgeschüttet – ich kenn ja “The Bread”!!
    Grüß mir den Kilimandscharo und lege eine stille Gedenkminute für Herrn Grizimek und seinen Sohn Michael für mich ein – beide bewundere ich sehr nach der Lektüre “Serengeti darf nicht sterben”. Ich hoffe, Du hast an den Mückenschutz gedacht….
    In diesem Sinne – auf die nächste Streuselschnecke und liebe Grüße von Rex

    1. Moin Rex,
      hast du das Grzimek-Gedenktafelfoto im Safari-Bericht gesehen? Der Gedenkstein mit dem Ngorongoro-Krater im Hintergrund hat mich sehr beeindruckt.
      Meine Güte, die Streuselschnecken hatte ich schon wieder völlig verdrängt. Wäre glaube ich auch schwierig, hier eine zu bekommen. Ich halte es da eher mit Bohnensuppe, Reis oder Currygemüse…
      Die St. Pauli-Spiele verfolge ich natürlich begeistert, leider nur im Internet und nicht live. Morgen spielt ja Stuttgart gegen den HSV. Mal schauen, ob ich es um 21.30 Uhr Ortszeit noch in den lokalen Fußball-Pub schaffe. Es könnte schwierig werden, zumal ich Samstag eine Tageswanderung am Fuße des Kilimanjaro plane und sehr früh los muss.
      Liebe Grüße,
      Olaf

      1. Na, dann hoffe ich mal, dass Du die Wanderung nicht allein unternimmst und wir Dich erst wiedersehen, wenn der Löwe seziert wird….
        Andererseits hast Du ja die Bohnenwaffe….musst nur sehen, dass Du in Front bleibst.
        Ja, der FC macht grade sehr viel Spaß, dass Spiel gegen 1860 war der Renner!! Leider bin ich für die nächsten drei Heimspiele außer Gefecht gesetzt wegen einer Firmenveranstaltung und einem Australien-Urlaub. Aber auch von Down Under werde ich Deinen Alltag in Moshi verfolgen.
        Liebe Grüße von der Waterkant. Rex

  4. Hier muss ich doch auch gleich noch mal meinen (Löwen-)Senf dazugeben:
    Dass mit den Giraffen, die man nicht sieht, obwohl sie quasi neben dem Auto stehen, hatten wir auch mit Elefanten. Man sollte wirklich nicht meinen, dass man einen Elefanten übersehen kann. Aber es geht.
    Umso begeisterter war ich immer wieder von der Fähigkeit der Guides, auch die kleinsten Tiere (oder eben schlafende Löwen im Gras, von denen nur die Foto raus guckt) bei laufender Fahrt zu erspähen…
    Bin schon gespannt auf die nächsten Berichte
    Frank

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  191. Hi there! I realize this is somewhat off-topic but I had to ask. Does building a well-established blog like yours take a lot of work? I’m completely new to blogging but I do write in my diary on a daily basis. I’d like to start a blog so I can share my own experience and views online. Please let me know if you have any suggestions or tips for new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!

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  193. Have you ever thought about publishing an e-book or guest authoring on other websites? I have a blog centered on the same ideas you discuss and would really like to have you share some stories/information. I know my viewers would enjoy your work. If you are even remotely interested, feel free to send me an e-mail.

  194. Hello there! This post couldn’t be written any better! Looking at this post reminds me of my previous roommate! He constantly kept talking about this. I’ll forward this information to him. Pretty sure he will have a very good read. Thanks for sharing!

  195. Please let me know if you’re looking for a article writer for your weblog. You have some really great posts and I think I would be a good asset. If you ever want to take some of the load off, I’d absolutely love to write some articles for your blog in exchange for a link back to mine. Please send me an e-mail if interested. Thank you!

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  197. Have you ever considered about including a little bit more than just your articles? I mean, what you say is valuable and all. However think about if you added some great photos or video clips to give your posts more, “pop”! Your content is excellent but with images and video clips, this website could undeniably be one of the greatest in its niche. Excellent blog!

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