Heute wartete ein ganz besonderes Erlebnis auf mich. Ich durfte eine Massai-Familie kennenlernen. Das war etwas ganz Außergewöhnliches.

Dabei hatte der Tag wenig verheißungsvoll begonnen. An unserer Daladala-Haltestelle stieg ich in den zweiten, leereren Van. Der erste und abfahrbereite Daladala quoll – wie hier üblich – geradezu über vor Insassen. Plötzlich stiegen alle aus dem ersten Van aus und liefen zu unserem Fahrzeug, ihres hatte offenbar eine Panne. Na toll, klar war unser Daladala mit einem Schlag voller als ein Junggesellenabschied in El Arenal und man war zugedeckt mit Haupthaar und Achselhöhlen, aber auch primären und sekundären Geschlechtsmerkmalen von Menschen, die man nicht kannte und so genau auch keinesfalls kennenlernen wollte. Mir gegenüber wurde eine Marktfrau auf halbe Größe gepresst. Leider stellte sie ihren unverändert großen Obstkorb auf meiner hellen Businesshose ab, zu der ich angesichts der für heute anberaumten Dienstreise ein weißes Hemd angezogen hatte. Danke für nichts, liebe Marktfrau: Im Büro musste ich die Hose mit einem Putzlappen von zweifelhafter Reinheit abrubbeln.
Zur Wut gesellte sich auch noch der erste Schweißausbruch des sonnig-wolkenlosen Tages.

Dienstreise hieß, in einem 3000-Einwohner-Vorortdorf (verteilt auf vier “Communities”) von Moshi herauszufinden, wie präsent dort die Praxis der Genitalverstümmelung sowie die Aufklärung (u.a. von betroffenen Mädchen und Frauen) über Folgen und Risiken sind. Die Hinfahrt dauerte mit dem Auto etwa eine Stunde. Daran lässt sich ablesen, wie flächenmäßig groß der Bezirk Moshi eigentlich ist. Auch wenn die Route zumeist entlang der gefühlt größten Zuckerrohr-Plantage der Welt verlief (jedenfalls versorgt sie angeblich ganz Tansania mit Zucker), bekam ich einen ersten Eindruck von der Natur außerhalb Moshis: staubig, trocken und trotzdem satt grün.

Zuerst interviewten wir die Dorfärztin. Ihre Praxis irgendwo im Nirgendwo bestand aus zwei karg eingerichteten Zimmerchen , die Patienten saßen draußen auf einer Bank, immerhin im Schatten. “Interviewen” heißt: Unsere wissenschaftliche Hilfskraft Asifiwe fragte auf Kisuaheli, die Antworten kamen auf Kisuaheli, und ich stellte ab der Mitte meine vorbereiteten Fragen. Ergebnis: Genitalverstümmelung gibt es dort nicht. Das ist in etwa so, als würde ein niedergelassener deutscher Allgemeinmediziner behaupten, er habe niemals mit Grippeinfektionen zu tun. Warum die Ärztin diese Aussage traf, vermag ich nicht zu beurteilen, auch nicht, ob sie eine Ärztin im klassischen Sinne war. Aber sie hatte ein Stethoskop auf dem Tisch liegen…

Danach sprachen wir mit einem so genannten Leader der Community, einem gesellschaftlichen angesehenen Mann. Über einflussreiche Wortführer wie ihn steuert NAFGEM in der Regel die Kampagnen. Er sagte zwei interessante Dinge: Dass es Genitalverstümmelung gäbe – aber keine Aufklärungsarbeit, um das zu ändern. Mein Arbeitgeber, der in diesem Bezirk momentan aus gewissen Gründen nicht tätig sein kann, hatte das befürchtet.

Danach ging es zu Fuß über staubige Feldwege zu einer kleinen Ansammlung von Lehmhütten. Dort, fernab jeglicher Touristenströme, wohnt eine Massai-Großfamilie. Als Erstes kamen die etwa 15 bis 20 Kinder angeflitzt und begrüßten uns fröhlich, griffen nach meinen Händen (als einziger Weißer stand ich im Mittelpunkt) und redeten alle auf einmal auf mich ein. Danach rückten die vier Ehefrauen an. Auch sie waren überaus freundlich. Mit einer verstand ich mich besonders gut, sie hatte mich statt mit normalem Handschlag wie die anderen mit einer bronxartigen Grifffolge begrüßt (so, wie es die Jugend in Deutschland heute auch macht). Der Clanchef, vierfache Ehemann und Vater der ganzen Kinderhorde stand ein paar Meter weiter. Er machte nicht viele Worte, lächelte milde, sein gräuliches Haar verlieh ihm etwas Würdevolles. Beeindruckend – wie auch die beiden jungen erwachsenen Massai, die in ihrem leuchtend blau-roten Gewand auf einem Hirtenstab gestützt und mit einem angezogenen Bein wortlos, aber lächelnd im Hintergrund standen.

Bei dieser Stippvisite wurde nicht über Genitalverstümmelung gesprochen, dafür passten schon der Rahmen und die vollständige Präsenz der Familie nicht. Dennoch ließ mich der Besuch bei den Massai alles andere als kalt. Sie leben in totaler Einöde, ihre kargen Lehmhütten standen wirklich im staubigen, dreckigen Nichts zwischen dornigen Büschen und verdörrten Bäumen. Ganze Schwärme von Fliegen schwirrten um die Köpfe der Kinder – so wie man es aus den Einspielfilmchen kennt, wenn das ZDF mal wieder eine Spendengala für hungernde Menschen veranstaltet. Und doch hatte ich nicht im entferntesten das Gefühl, dass Mitleid nötig ist. Diese Menschen scheinen mit sich und dem Leben im Reinen. Die Massai definieren das Hier und Jetzt, definieren Glück und Zufriedenheit eben anders als Menschen aus Mannheim oder Melbourne oder Manaus. Kategorien wie “besser” oder “schlechter” empfand ich in dem Moment nicht als angebracht, auch wenn ich beileibe nicht tauschen wollte. Deswegen fuhr ich mit einem guten Gefühl zurück nach Hause.

Dort wartet jetzt das Wochenende im Tarangire Nationalpark und im Ngorongoro-Krater auf mich. Nächste Woche wird es interessant: Für Dienstag habe ich ein Freundschaftsspiel gegen ein anderes Waisenhaus vereinbart. Hoffentlich klappt’s! Und natürlich gab es wieder einen Verletzten gestern beim Fußball. Diesmal musste ein Nachbarsjunge mit Schmerzen am ganzen Bein aufhören, weil er im vollen Lauf leicht von einem Gegenspieler touchiert wurde und sehr unsanft zu Fall kam.

Die Überschrift? War ein blöder Scherz von mir. Die Etagentoilette unseres Bürohauses verfügt über keine Seife. Ist ja nicht so appetitlich, deshalb habe ich gestern Mittag Seife besorgt und aufs Waschbecken gestellt – versehen mit dem handgeschriebenen Schild “If you steal it, you’ll come into hell”. Abgesehen von dem fragwürdigen Englisch und dem Bezug auf unsere allein christliche Wahnvorstellung der Hölle ertappte ich mich selbst dabei, dass ich Diebstahl als Normalität annahm. Das Schild habe ich nach zwei Stunden abgenommen. Die Seife steht noch heute, also einen Tag später, da.

Join the Conversation

1403 Comments

  1. Hi Olaf,
    und wieder gleicht Dein Blog einer Zeitreise. Das, was Du da über die Massai in ihrem Dorf geschrieben hast, kommt mir alles so bekannt vor. Die Freundlichkeit der Leute und die offensichtliche Zufriedenheit mit einem Leben, das wir als ärmlich und dreckig empfinden würden, wenn wir einen Fernsehbeitrag darüber sehen. Genauso empfand ich das damals auch.
    Man sieht Deinen Fotos auch an, dass die Kinder ganz verrückt danach sind, ihre Gesichter auf dem Bildschirm einer Digitalkamera zu sehen. Ich nehme an, du hast noch ein paar Fotos machen müssen;-)
    Wobei ich es damals faszinierend und gleichzeitig auch erschreckend fand, wie sich diese Freundlichkeit ändern kann, je mehr Kontakt die Leute zu westlichen Touristen haben. Ich war total schockiert, als mir ein paar Tage nach dem Besuch in so einem Dorf weitab vom Schuß die Massai am Lake Natron nicht mehr von der Seite wichen, im Versuch, ihre Ketten zu verkaufen oder sie die Hand aufhielten, nachdem man ein Foto von ihnen gemacht hatte. Aber wie du an anderer Stelle schriebst, als Mzungu ist man für die Leute einfach unermesslich reich und da wird es dann als Selbstverständlichkeit angesehen, etwas von dem Reichtum abzugeben. Was es irgendwie ja auch ist. Trotzdem fällt das leichter, wenn die Leute dabei freundlich bleiben…

    Viel Spaß noch.
    Frank (AoBa)

    P.S. Bin total neidisch darauf, dass du den Kili so schön und majestätisch gesehen hast. Dass ich die Big Five nicht automatisch alle zu Gesicht kriegen würde, hatte ich ja geahnt, aber damit, dass sich ein Berg auch verstecken kann, hatte ich nicht gerechnet…

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  206. Howdy! I know this is kind of off-topic but I had to ask. Does building a well-established blog like yours take a massive amount work? I’m completely new to writing a blog but I do write in my diary daily. I’d like to start a blog so I will be able to share my own experience and thoughts online. Please let me know if you have any ideas or tips for new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!

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  213. First off I want to say great blog! I had a quick question in which I’d like to ask if you don’t mind. I was curious to know how you center yourself and clear your mind before writing. I have had a hard time clearing my mind in getting my thoughts out. I do enjoy writing but it just seems like the first 10 to 15 minutes are generally wasted just trying to figure out how to begin. Any ideas or tips? Cheers!

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  220. Howdy! I know this is somewhat off-topic but I had to ask. Does operating a well-established blog like yours take a massive amount work? I’m completely new to writing a blog but I do write in my diary everyday. I’d like to start a blog so I can share my experience and views online. Please let me know if you have any suggestions or tips for new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!

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  247. With havin so much content and articles do you ever run into any problems of plagorism or copyright violation? My site has a lot of completely unique content I’ve either created myself or outsourced but it looks like a lot of it is popping it up all over the web without my agreement. Do you know any solutions to help reduce content from being ripped off? I’d definitely appreciate it.

  248. First off I want to say superb blog! I had a quick question in which I’d like to ask if you don’t mind. I was curious to know how you center yourself and clear your mind before writing. I have had a hard time clearing my mind in getting my thoughts out. I do enjoy writing but it just seems like the first 10 to 15 minutes are wasted just trying to figure out how to begin. Any ideas or tips? Thank you!

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  251. Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates. I’ve been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

  252. Undeniably believe that which you stated. Your favorite justification appeared to be on the internet the simplest thing to be aware of. I say to you, I definitely get irked while people consider worries that they plainly do not know about. You managed to hit the nail upon the top and also defined out the whole thing without having side effect , people can take a signal. Will likely be back to get more. Thanks

  253. What i do not realize is in reality how you’re now not really a lot more well-favored than you may be right now. You are so intelligent. You recognize therefore significantly in terms of this topic, produced me in my opinion consider it from numerous various angles. Its like men and women don’t seem to be interested unless it’s something to accomplish with Lady gaga! Your own stuffs excellent. Always care for it up!

  254. First off I want to say terrific blog! I had a quick question in which I’d like to ask if you don’t mind. I was curious to know how you center yourself and clear your thoughts before writing. I have had trouble clearing my mind in getting my thoughts out. I do enjoy writing but it just seems like the first 10 to 15 minutes are usually wasted just trying to figure out how to begin. Any ideas or tips? Kudos!

  255. I was wondering if you ever considered changing the layout of your blog? Its very well written; I love what youve got to say. But maybe you could a little more in the way of content so people could connect with it better. Youve got an awful lot of text for only having one or two images. Maybe you could space it out better?

  256. With havin so much content and articles do you ever run into any problems of plagorism or copyright violation? My website has a lot of completely unique content I’ve either authored myself or outsourced but it looks like a lot of it is popping it up all over the web without my authorization. Do you know any techniques to help reduce content from being ripped off? I’d truly appreciate it.

  257. Howdy excellent blog! Does running a blog like this take a lot of work? I have very little knowledge of computer programming but I was hoping to start my own blog soon. Anyway, if you have any recommendations or tips for new blog owners please share. I know this is off topic nevertheless I just had to ask. Cheers!

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  259. Today, I went to the beachfront with my kids. I found a sea shell and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said “You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear.” She put the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back! LoL I know this is entirely off topic but I had to tell someone!

  260. Hello there! This is kind of off topic but I need some advice from an established blog. Is it tough to set up your own blog? I’m not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty fast. I’m thinking about setting up my own but I’m not sure where to start. Do you have any tips or suggestions? With thanks

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  264. Hi! I realize this is somewhat off-topic but I had to ask. Does running a well-established blog like yours take a massive amount work? I’m completely new to operating a blog but I do write in my diary daily. I’d like to start a blog so I will be able to share my own experience and thoughts online. Please let me know if you have any ideas or tips for new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!

  265. First off I want to say wonderful blog! I had a quick question in which I’d like to ask if you don’t mind. I was curious to know how you center yourself and clear your thoughts before writing. I have had trouble clearing my mind in getting my thoughts out. I do enjoy writing but it just seems like the first 10 to 15 minutes are wasted just trying to figure out how to begin. Any suggestions or tips? Cheers!

  266. I think what you postedwrotethink what you postedtypedsaidbelieve what you postedwrotesaidbelieve what you postedtypedWhat you postedwrotesaid was very logicala bunch of sense. But, what about this?consider this, what if you were to write a killer headlinetitle?content?wrote a catchier title? I ain’t saying your content isn’t good.ain’t saying your content isn’t gooddon’t want to tell you how to run your blog, but what if you added a titleheadlinetitle that grabbed people’s attention?maybe get a person’s attention?want more? I mean %BLOG_TITLE% is a little plain. You could look at Yahoo’s home page and watch how they createwrite news headlines to get viewers interested. You might add a video or a related pic or two to get readers interested about what you’ve written. Just my opinion, it might bring your postsblog a little livelier.

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  269. I was wondering if you ever considered changing the page layout of your site? Its very well written; I love what youve got to say. But maybe you could a little more in the way of content so people could connect with it better. Youve got an awful lot of text for only having one or two images. Maybe you could space it out better?

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  274. I was wondering if you ever considered changing the page layout of your blog? Its very well written; I love what youve got to say. But maybe you could a little more in the way of content so people could connect with it better. Youve got an awful lot of text for only having one or two images. Maybe you could space it out better?

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  279. Howdy! I know this is somewhat off topic but I was wondering which blog platform are you using for this site? I’m getting fed up of WordPress because I’ve had issues with hackers and I’m looking at options for another platform. I would be great if you could point me in the direction of a good platform.

  280. Superb blog! Do you have any recommendations for aspiring writers? I’m planning to start my own site soon but I’m a little lost on everything. Would you suggest starting with a free platform like WordPress or go for a paid option? There are so many choices out there that I’m totally confused .. Any recommendations? Thanks a lot!

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